1. Purpose

This policy explains how members of the public can use non‑prescription (“over‑the‑counter”) anti‑ageing creams safely and sensibly at home.^{1 5}

It applies only to products that are regulated as cosmetic‑class in Australia, not as prescription medicines or therapeutic goods.^{1 3}

The focus is on appearance‑related outcomes such as smoother texture, brighter‑looking skin and the reduced appearance of fine lines, not on diagnosing, preventing or treating disease.^{1 9}

The document is written for non‑medical readers, and is intended as general information only, not as individual medical or treatment advice.^{2 10}

2. Scope

This policy covers non‑prescription creams, serums and lotions sold as cosmetics in pharmacies, supermarkets, beauty retailers and online.^{1 3}

These products are used to clean, moisturise or improve the appearance of the skin, without being supplied on a prescription.^{1 3}

It does not cover prescription‑only retinoids (such as tretinoin or adapalene) or oral retinoids (such as isotretinoin), which are medicines that must be prescribed and supervised by a doctor.^{1 9}

It also does not cover clinical procedures such as medical‑grade chemical peels, laser treatments or other interventions provided as health services.^{2 6}

Anyone with persistent, painful, rapidly worsening or scarring skin problems should seek advice from a GP or dermatologist rather than relying on cosmetics alone.^{2 7}

3. Key Definitions

OTC (Over‑the‑Counter) Retinol / Retinoid Creams

These are low‑strength vitamin A derivatives (for example, retinol, retinal or retinyl esters) that can be purchased without a prescription and are used for cosmetic purposes.^{5 9}

They are marketed to improve the appearance of fine lines, uneven texture and photo‑ageing when used regularly over time.^{5 9}

AHA (Alpha‑Hydroxy Acid) Creams

These creams contain acids such as glycolic, lactic or mandelic acid, which loosen and remove dead surface cells.^{9 7}

They are used to help the skin look smoother, brighter and more even, particularly where mild roughness or dullness is present.^{9 7}

BHA (Beta‑Hydroxy Acid) Creams

Cosmetic BHA is usually salicylic acid at low concentration, often included in products aimed at oily or congested‑looking skin.^{7 9}

These formulations are intended to refine the appearance of rough, bumpy or clogged‑looking areas, not to medically treat acne.^{7 9}

PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid) Creams

PHAs such as gluconolactone are larger‑molecule exfoliants that act more gently than many AHAs.^{9 7}

They are often frmulated for sensitive or easily irritated skin, offering mild smoothing together with hydration.^{8 9}

Cosmetic‑Class Product

A cosmetic‑class product is used to change appearance, cleanse, perfume or keep the skin in good condition, without claiming to treat or prevent a disease or health condition.^{1 3}

In Australia, classification depends on ingredients, route of administration and especially the claims made on labels and advertising.^{1 3}

Non‑Prescription / OTC

Non‑prescription products can be bought without a doctor’s prescription in general retail or online.^{1 3}

They may still have warnings about usage, pregnancy, sensitive skin and sun exposure that must be followed carefully.^{1 5}

4. Regulatory Framework (Australia)

This policy is written to be consistent with the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) guidance on whether a product is classified as a cosmetic or a therapeutic good.^{1 3}

All products described here are assumed to fall within the cosmetic definition, not as registered medicines or medical devices.^{1 3}

It aligns with AHPRA guidelines for advertising a regulated health service, which emphasise accurate, non‑misleading information and prohibit unsubstantiated therapeutic claims or guarantees.²

The policy also reflects ACCC product safety and cosmetic labelling requirements, including clear ingredient disclosure and honest consumer information.³

Advice on sun protection is based on Cancer Council Australia and RACGP recommendations for using broad‑spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen and protective measures.^{4 6}

5. Product Categories (Non‑Prescription Only)

5.1 OTC Retinol / Retinoid Anti‑Ageing Creams

These products contain vitamin A derivatives (e.g. retinol, retinal, retinyl esters) at cosmetic strengths, not prescription retinoid levels.^{5 9}

When used consistently, they are marketed to help soften the appearance of fine lines, uneven texture and signs of photo‑ageing.^{5 9}

Non‑prescription retinol strengths are commonly around 0.1–1%, although the effective strength also depends on the formulation and how often it is used.^{5 9}

Stronger topical retinoids and oral retinoids are prescribed medicines and are beyond the scope of this cosmetic‑only policy.^{1 9}

5.2 AHA (Alpha‑Hydroxy Acid) Creams

AHA products use acids such as glycolic, lactic or mandelic acid to promote gentle removal of dead skin cells from the surface.^{9 7}

They are marketed to improve brightness, smoothness and overall surface texture, particularly in those with mild roughness or unevenness.^{9 7}

Non‑prescription creams typically use moderate concentrations suitable for home use when applied as directed on the label.^{3 9}

5.3 BHA (Beta‑Hydroxy Acid) Creams

Cosmetic BHA products rely mainly on salicylic acid, which is oil‑soluble and penetrates into oily or congested areas.^{7 9}

They aim to refine the appearance of clogged pores, bumps and rough patches, particularly in the T‑zone or other oily regions.^{7 9}

They must still be used with care, as overuse may cause dryness, irritation or peeling.^{5 7}

5.4 PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid) Creams

PHAs such as gluconolactone offer slower, milder exfoliation and are marketed as being better tolerated by sensitive or reactive skin.^{9 8}

They often appear in creams that combine exfoliation with hydration and barrier support, making them suitable for cautious users.^{8 9}

5.5 Combination Anti‑Ageing / Exfoliant Creams

Many cosmetic products combine retinoids with AHAs, PHAs, niacinamide or hydrating ingredients to target several appearance concerns at once.^{5 9}

These combinations can be convenient but are more likely to cause irritation if introduced too quickly or layered with additional actives from other products.^{5 7}

Consumers should pay close attention to the label and start such products gradually, monitoring how their skin responds.^{5 7}

6. Safety & Precautions (Non‑Prescription Only)

Consumers should start slowly with any new retinol, AHA, BHA or PHA cream, especially if they have never used similar products before.^{5 7}

Using these actives 2–3 nights per week at first and only increasing if the skin remains comfortable can reduce redness, stinging and peeling.^{5 7}

A patch test on a small area (for example under the jawline) for 24–48 hours before applying to the whole face is a sensible step, particularly for sensitive or allergy‑prone skin.^{5 8}

Products should not be applied to sunburnt, broken, infected or obviously inflamed skin and should be kept away from the eyelids and direct eye area unless the label specifically states otherwise.^{5 8}

Because retinoids and exfoliating acids can increase sun sensitivity, daily use of a broad‑spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen, plus hats, shade and protective clothing, is strongly recommended.^{4 6}

Using several strong actives at once (for example, retinol plus AHA plus BHA on the same night) greatly increases the risk of irritation and is generally best avoided.^{5 9}

During pregnancy or when trying to conceive, Australian and international guidance commonly advises avoiding retinoid products and checking any skin care ingredients with a doctor or pharmacist.^{1 6}

If consumers are unsure whether a product is appropriate in their situation, they should seek advice from a health professional rather than relying only on online information.^{2 10}

7. How to Use – Deep, User‑Friendly Guide

These routines are general patterns, not individual prescriptions, and must always be read alongside each product’s own instructions.^{2 5}

7.1 General Routine (Introductory Retinol or AHA Cream)

This routine assumes one single active product (retinol or AHA cream) used on a simple base of cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen.^{5 7}

Evening Routine (2–3 nights per week to start)

Step 1 – Cleanse gently

Use a mild, non‑scrubbing, preferably fragrance‑free cleanser to remove makeup, sunscreen and surface oils.^{5 8}

Avoid strong “peeling” cleansers and harsh scrubs, which already thin and irritate the outer skin layer.^{5 9}

Rinse with lukewarm water, then gently pat the face dry with a soft towel rather than rubbing.^{5 6}

Step 2 – Let the skin dry fully (about 5–10 minutes)

Wait until the face feels completely dry before applying the retinol or AHA product.^{5 7}

Applying these actives to damp skin can significantly increase absorption and the likelihood of stinging or irritation, especially at the beginning.^{5 9}

Step 3 – Apply a pea‑sized amount of the active product

Dispense roughly a pea‑sized amount for the whole face, unless the product label clearly directs a different quantity.^{5 7}

Dot small amounts on the forehead, both cheeks, nose and chin, then gently spread to form a thin, even layer.^{5 7}

Avoid the eyelids, inner eye corners, nostril creases, corners of the mouth and any visibly irritated or broken skin.^{5 8}

Using more than a pea‑sized amount usually increases irritation without improving cosmetic results.^{5 7}

Step 4 – Moisturise

Apply a plain, fragrance‑free moisturiser after the active product if the skin feels tight, dry or uncomfortable.^{5 7}

For very sensitive skin, a light layer of moisturiser may be used before and after the active product to buffer its strength.^{5 8}

This helps protect the skin barrier while the face adjusts to more active ingredients.^{5 7}

Step 5 – Avoid other strong actives on the same night

On nights when a retinol or AHA cream is used, avoid layering it with other exfoliating toners, peels, scrubs or high‑strength vitamin C products.^{5 9}

Stacking multiple actives is a major cause of redness, peeling and burning in cosmetic skincare routines.^{5 9}

Morning Routine (every day)

In the morning, cleanse gently if needed and apply moisturiser according to comfort and skin type.^{5 6}

Apply a broad‑spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen generously to all exposed skin, and reapply as directed when outdoors or after swimming or sweating.^{4 6}

Regular sunscreen use helps maintain cosmetic improvements and reduces long‑term UV damage and uneven pigment.^{4 6}

7.2 “Retinol Night” vs “Rest Night” Pattern

A “Retinol Night / Rest Night” pattern helps the skin adapt by building in recovery time.^{5 7}

On a Retinol (or AHA) Night, the routine is: Cleanse → Active product → Moisturiser.^{5 7}

On a Rest Night, the routine is: Cleanse → Moisturiser only (no retinol, no AHA/BHA/PHAs, no scrubs or peels).^{5 7}

This simple rhythm lets the skin recover between exposures, reducing the chance of cumulative irritation while still maintaining regular use.^{5 7}

Example pattern for beginners (first 4 weeks):

Weeks 1–2 (low frequency)

• Monday – Active Night
• Tuesday – Rest Night
• Wednesday – Active Night
• Thursday – Rest Night
• Friday – Rest Night
• Saturday – Optional Active Night if skin is calm
• Sunday – Rest Night

Weeks 3–4 (if tolerated)

Move to alternate‑night use (active one night, rest the next) if there is minimal redness, no painful burning and only mild or no flaking.^{5 7}

After 6–8 weeks, some people may choose to increase to 3–4 active nights per week, but nightly use is not essential and can be too much for some skin types.^{5 7}

If irritation worsens at any stage, it is reasonable to add extra rest nights or pause use for several days.^{5 6}

7.3 Signs to Reduce Frequency or Stop

The following are common warning signs that frequency, strength or layering may be too aggressive.^{5 7}

1. Stinging that lasts more than 10–15 minutes

A mild, brief tingle may be acceptable for some products, but prolonged burning is not.^{5 7}

If this occurs, the user should reduce use to once or twice weekly or stop temporarily until the skin settles.^{5 6}

2. Obvious peeling or flaking patches

Small “micro‑flakes” early in treatment can be normal, but large peeling sheets or persistent flaking indicate barrier irritation.^{5 7}

At this stage, the active product should be paused and replaced with a simple routine of gentle cleanser and moisturiser until the skin normalises.^{5 6}

3. Tight, shiny or “plastic‑looking” skin

Skin that feels very tight or looks overly shiny may be over‑exfoliated.^{5 9}

All exfoliating actives (retinol, AHA, BHA, scrubs, peels) should be stopped and barrier‑supporting skincare used instead.^{5 6}

4. Redness that increases over days or weeks

A mild, short‑lived pinkness can occur after actives, but redness that worsens or spreads is a sign of irritation.^{5 7}

In this case, it is sensible to reduce frequency, return to a simpler routine or stop the active product altogether.^{5 6}

5. Burning or irritation around the nose, mouth or eyes

These areas are particularly sensitive and products can collect in creases.^{5 8}

Placing a thin layer of plain moisturiser or petroleum jelly around the nostrils and mouth before applying the active can help protect these sites, and the active should be kept away from eyelids unless specifically labelled for that region.^{5 8}

6. Sharp discomfort or pain

Sharp pain or significant burning is not part of normal skin adjustment and should prompt immediate cessation of the product.^{5 7}

If symptoms are severe, persistent or associated with swelling, weeping or cracking, a health professional should review the skin.^{2 7}

7. Worsening of known sensitive skin conditions

People with eczema, rosacea or similar conditions often react more readily to strong actives.^{8 6}

If such conditions flare with retinol or acids, these products should be stopped and medical advice sought if needed.^{8 6}

8. When to seek medical help

Severe burning, weeping or cracked skin, spreading rash, marked swelling or symptoms around the eyes warrant clinical assessment rather than continued self‑treatment.^{2 6}

This policy offers general safety guidance but is not a substitute for proper examination and diagnosis.^{2 6}

8. When NOT to Use These Products

It is usually safest to avoid or delay using retinol/AHA/BHA/PHA products in the following circumstances.^{5 7}

Known allergy or previous strong reaction to similar ingredients.^{5 8}

Sunburnt, broken, infected or very inflamed skin.^{5 8}

Immediately after strong in‑clinic procedures such as deep peels or major laser resurfacing, until the treating practitioner confirms the skin is healed.^{2 6}

Active medical skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, severe acne or rosacea, unless a health professional has advised on specific cosmetic product use.^{5 8}

Pregnancy or trying to conceive, where topical retinoids are generally avoided and ingredient lists should be checked with a doctor or pharmacist.^{1 6}

In these situations, a simple routine using gentle cleanser, moisturiser and sun protection is usually more appropriate until personalised advice is obtained.^{2 6}

9. Understanding Labels & Claims

Consumers should always read the ingredient list and usage directions on cosmetic products before use.^{3 7}

They should check how often to apply, how much to use, which body areas are appropriate and whether special precautions such as pregnancy warnings or “avoid eye area” are included.^{1 3}

Cosmetic products should make appearance‑based claims (e.g. “helps improve the look of fine lines”) rather than guaranteeing cure or treatment of disease.^{1 2}

Products that claim to “treat”, “cure” or “prevent” disease, or that guarantee dramatic results, are more likely to be outside the normal cosmetic category and may be misleading if not appropriately regulated.^{1 3}

10. Storage, Handling & Disposal

Cosmetic products should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, as heat and light can degrade retinoids and some other active ingredients.^{3 9}

Lids, caps and pumps should be kept tightly closed to minimise contamination and maintain product stability.^{3 5}

Skincare items are generally intended for individual use, and sharing jars or tubes may increase the risk of contamination or infection.^{3 8}

Consumers should check expiry dates and avoid using products that have obviously changed in colour, smell or texture.^{3 5}

Unused or expired products can usually be discarded in household rubbish, following any recycling or disposal instructions on the packaging.³

11. Governance, Review & Non‑Prescription Boundary

This policy is restricted to non‑prescription, cosmetic‑class products available to the general public.^{1 3}

Any product that is prescription‑only, makes therapeutic claims or forms part of a regulated health service falls outside this policy and should be governed under relevant medical and prescribing guidelines.^{1 2}

The content should be reviewed at least every 1–2 years to reflect updates in TGA cosmetic/therapeutic guidance, AHPRA advertising rules and national sun protection recommendations.^{1 2 4}

Language should remain neutral, non‑promotional and fully consistent with Australian regulatory expectations.^{2 3}

12. Disclaimer

This policy is a general information resource for non‑prescription cosmetic skincare and does not provide personalised medical advice.^{2 10}

It does not diagnose, treat, prevent or manage any medical condition.^{2 6}

People with ongoing, severe or distressing skin issues should seek advice from a registered health practitioner such as a GP or dermatologist.^{2 6}

Sources

1. Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) 2024, Determining if your product is a cosmetic or therapeutic good, Australian Government Department of Health and Aged Care, Canberra, viewed 21 November 2025, https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/determining-if-your-product-cosmetic-or-therapeutic-good. ↩
2. Australian Health Practitioner Regulation Agency (AHPRA) 2020, Guidelines for advertising a regulated health service, AHPRA, Melbourne, viewed 21 November 2025, https://www.ahpra.gov.au/Resources/Advertising-hub/Advertising-guidelines-and-other-guidance/Advertising-guidelines.aspx ↩
3. Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) 2023, Cosmetic ingredients labelling guide, Product Safety Australia, Canberra, viewed 21 November 2025, https://www.productsafety.gov.au/consumers/use-cosmetic-and-fashion-products-safely/cosmetic-ingredients-labelling-guide ↩
4. Cancer Council Australia n.d., Sunscreen, Cancer Council Australia, Sydney, viewed 21 November 2025, https://www.cancercouncil.com.au/cancer-prevention/sun-protection/preventing-skin-cancer/sunscreen/ ↩
5. Australasian College of Dermatologists (ACD) 2023, Ageing skin – A–Z of Skin, ACD, Sydney, viewed 21 November 2025, https://www.dermcoll.edu.au/atoz/ageing-skin/ ↩
6. Royal Australian College of General Practitioners (RACGP) 2014, Sunscreen for skin cancer prevention (HANDI), RACGP, East Melbourne, viewed 21 November 2025, https://www.racgp.org.au/clinical-resources/clinical-guidelines/handi/handi-interventions/other/sunscreen-for-skin-cancer-prevention ↩
7. Healthdirect Australia 2025, Acne – treatments, causes and prevention, Healthdirect Australia, Canberra, viewed 21 November 2025, https://www.healthdirect.gov.au/acne ↩
8. Eczema Association of Australasia 2025, How to choose skincare products for eczema, Eczema Association of Australasia, Brisbane, viewed 21 November 2025, https://eczema.org.au/choose-skincare-products-for-eczema/ ↩
9. DermNet New Zealand 2023, Topical retinoids (vitamin A creams), DermNet NZ, Auckland, viewed 21 November 2025, https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-retinoids ↩
10. NPS MedicineWise 2022, Making wise choices about medicines, NPS MedicineWise, Sydney, viewed 21 November 2025, https://www.nps.org.au/consumers/making-wise-choices-about-medicines ↩