Introduction

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 used in non‑prescription skincare to improve texture, tone and overall skin comfort. It is not a prescription medicine in Australia; it is a cosmetic active that has been tested in human clinical trials. Those trials show improvements in uneven colour, fine surface lines, sallowness and redness when used regularly at concentrations around four to five percent. ^{1 4}

Because niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier and calms inflammation, it often makes other treatments—such as retinoids, vitamin C and chemical exfoliants—easier to tolerate. Many patients also find that their makeup applies more evenly and their skin looks less blotchy after several weeks of daily use. ²⁴

Category and product type

Topical niacinamide serums and creams are sold over the counter as cosmetic products in Australia. They are not registered as medicines unless combined with specific medical claims. The evidence base comes from controlled clinical trials and laboratory studies of how niacinamide affects skin barrier lipids, inflammation and pigment transfer. ^{2 3 4}

What niacinamide improves and who benefits

Regular use of a four to five percent formulation can improve uneven pigmentation, soften the look of fine surface lines, reduce yellowish dullness sometimes seen in sun‑exposed skin, and calm redness. These outcomes have been demonstrated in randomized, controlled facial studies compared with placebo formulations. ¹

People with sensitive or redness‑prone skin often benefit because niacinamide helps the outer skin barrier make more of its natural lipids and reduces low‑grade inflammation. It is also a useful maintenance ingredient for people prone to dark marks after breakouts or procedures, because it helps reduce the hand‑over of pigment from pigment‑making cells to the surrounding skin cells. ^{2 3}

How niacinamide works

Niacinamide supports the enzymes that build the skin’s natural fats called ceramides. Ceramides are part of the ‘mortar’ between skin cells; more ceramides mean a stronger barrier and less water loss through the skin. A stronger barrier looks and feels smoother and is less reactive. ²

Niacinamide also quietens inflammatory signals in the skin. Lower background inflammation means less redness and less tendency to look uneven or blotchy day to day. ⁴

Finally, niacinamide reduces how many pigment ‘packets’—called melanosomes—are handed from pigment‑making cells to the surrounding skin cells. With fewer pigment packets being passed along, dark patches gradually look lighter and the overall tone looks more even. ³

How to use it so it works

Use niacinamide once or twice daily on clean, dry skin. Four to five percent is the best‑studied range for overall tone and texture. Apply a thin layer after cleansing and before heavier creams. In the morning, apply sunscreen after niacinamide. At night, it can be layered before or after a gentle moisturiser. ^{1 4}

Niacinamide pairs well with most routines. It can sit under vitamin C serums in the morning and can make prescription retinoids easier to tolerate at night. If your skin is very reactive, start once daily and increase as comfort allows. ⁴

What to expect over time

In the first two to four weeks, many people notice better comfort and less daily redness as the barrier strengthens. By eight to twelve weeks, controlled trials show clearer improvements: fewer and lighter dark spots, smoother surface texture, and a reduction in yellowish sallowness in photo‑aged skin. Improvements continue with ongoing daily use. ^{1 4}

Common adverse effects and simple fixes

Niacinamide is generally well tolerated. A small number of people experience a warm sensation or mild stinging when they first apply it. This usually settles as the skin adjusts. If you are sensitive, apply a gentle moisturiser first and then layer niacinamide on top for the first fortnight, or use it every second day and increase slowly. ⁴

Very rarely, poorly formulated products can convert a small fraction of niacinamide to niacin, which can cause a transient flushing sensation. Modern products are designed to minimise this. If flushing occurs, switch brand or reduce frequency until comfortable. ⁴

Key cautions and special situations

Niacinamide is widely used by people with sensitive skin, including those with redness‑prone conditions, but patch‑testing a small area for several days is sensible if your skin reacts easily. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, topical niacinamide is generally considered acceptable, but ask your clinician if you have concerns. If you develop a persistent rash, stop and seek advice. ⁴

Choosing a good niacinamide product

Look for clearly labelled concentrations in the four to five percent range. Choose fragrance‑free formulas if your skin is easily irritated. For darker skin tones or those prone to dark marks after inflammation, combine niacinamide with strict daily sunscreen to reduce the chance of new blotchy patches while older marks are fading. ^{1 5}

Evidence at a glance

A twelve‑week randomized, controlled split‑face study using a five percent niacinamide moisturiser showed significant improvements in fine lines, uneven pigmentation, yellowing and redness compared with placebo. These visible changes aligned with laboratory findings that niacinamide increases barrier lipids and reduces low‑grade inflammation. ^{1 2 4}

Laboratory and ex vivo human skin research demonstrates that niacinamide reduces the transfer of pigment packets from pigment‑making cells to surrounding skin cells, which explains its role in evening skin tone in conditions like melasma and post‑inflammatory dark marks. ³

A small randomized clinical trial in melasma reported that a four percent niacinamide cream improved melasma scores with a similar magnitude to four percent hydroquinone over eight weeks, with fewer reports of irritation; strict sun protection was essential in both groups. ⁵

Sources

1. Bissett D L, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J & Berge C A 2004, Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26:231–238. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18492135/ ↩
2. Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T & Inoue S 2000, Nicotinamide increases ceramide and free fatty acid levels in human keratinocytes, Journal of Dermatological Science. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10971324/ ↩
3. Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, Chhoa M, Humphrey S, Maeda K et al. 2002, The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer, British Journal of Dermatology, 147(Suppl 62):20–31. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180/ ↩
4. Gehring W 2004, Nicotinamide—mechanism of action and its topical use in dermatology, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2):88–93. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24993939/ ↩
5. Gehring W 2004, Nicotinamide—mechanism of action and its topical use in dermatology, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2):88–93. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24993939/ ↩