Disclaimer

This document provides general information for adults (18+) on non-prescription, cosmetic-class facial cleansers. It is intended for internal use within Newcastle Cosmetic Doctor (NCD) as a patient education resource and clinical governance tool. It does not diagnose, treat or cure any medical condition and must not be used as a substitute for personalised advice from a GP, dermatologist, pharmacist or other registered health practitioner.^{1 3}

The cleansers discussed here are assumed to meet Australian definitions of cosmetic products, where the primary purpose is cleansing and grooming and no therapeutic claims (for example “treats eczema/psoriasis/acne”) are made.^{12 13} Chemicals in cosmetic products are regulated by the Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS), while therapeutic goods (for example prescription washes, therapeutic sunscreens) fall under the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA).^{12 13} The policy is written to align with Australian Consumer Law (ACCC) on advertising, and AHPRA/Medical Board of Australia advertising standards.^{14 15}

This policy applies to adult patients (18+) with intact facial skin. It does not apply to infants, children or adolescents, pregnancy or breastfeeding, or active skin disease requiring medical management (for example severe eczema, psoriasis, rosacea flares, infections, open wounds). Patients in excluded categories should be referred for individualised medical care.^{1 3}

1. Purpose

The purpose of this policy is to provide a clear, legally conservative, evidence-informed framework for recommending non-prescription facial cleansers to adult patients at Newcastle Cosmetic Doctor. It aims to support safe, gentle cleansing that preserves the skin barrier and reduces irritation risk in everyday practice.^{1 5 7}

The policy standardises how staff explain what a cleanser should and should not do, how to use it correctly, and when to change products or seek medical review. It also aims to avoid therapeutic or misleading cosmetic claims, maintaining compliance with Australian regulatory expectations for cosmetic-class products (AICIS, TGA, ACCC, AHPRA).^{11 12 13 14 15}

2. Scope & Applicability

This policy applies to soap-free, pH-balanced facial cleansers, including gels, foams, cream or lotion cleansers, oils and balms, and micellar waters used in adults. It covers cleansers used as part of cosmetic-class routines such as anti-ageing skincare, non-prescription acne-support regimes and peri-procedural care where skin is intact.^{1 5}

The policy excludes prescription or pharmacist-only products (for example medicated acne washes, antiseptic washes and antifungal shampoos or cleansers) and products regulated or marketed as therapeutic goods under the TGA framework, such as therapeutic sunscreens and medicated body washes.^{1 2 13 17} Intended users are NCD clinicians and staff, and adult patients as a patient information handout, with the understanding that personalised medical advice may still be required.

3. Legal & Regulatory Framework (Australia)

Under AICIS and the TGA, whether a product is a cosmetic or therapeutic good depends on its primary purpose, ingredients and claims.^{12 13} Facial cleansers governed by this policy are assumed to be cosmetics (not listed on the ARTG), to avoid claiming to treat or prevent disease, and to be used for cleansing and comfort rather than medical treatment.^{12 13}

Australian Consumer Law, enforced by the ACCC, prohibits false, misleading or unsubstantiated claims, including vague or exaggerated performance statements.¹⁴ For cleansers, NCD must avoid claims such as “cures eczema”, “clinically proven to reverse rosacea” or “heals acne” unless supported by robust evidence consistent with health advertising law.^{14 15} AHPRA and the Medical Board of Australia stress that cosmetic advertising must be honest, balanced and realistic and must not exploit vulnerable patients; the same principles apply to skincare-related advice.¹⁵

Sunscreens that are therapeutic goods are regulated by the TGA and must meet strict SPF and quality standards.^{13 17} Cancer Council guidance on timing, quantity and re-application of sunscreen is referenced in this policy, but NCD does not manufacture or sponsor sunscreen products.¹¹ Complex or borderline regulatory scenarios should be referred for legal advice where necessary.

4. Key Definitions & Skin Background

A facial cleanser is a cosmetic product designed to remove surface debris such as sweat, sebum, sunscreen, makeup and pollutants from the face without damaging the skin barrier when used as directed.^{7 8}

“Soap-free” or “syndet” (synthetic detergent) cleansers use milder surfactants than traditional soap and are generally less alkaline and less irritating, particularly for eczema-prone or sensitive skin.^{1 5 7} The skin barrier and acid mantle refer to the stratum corneum and its lipid matrix, which control water loss and block irritants; the natural surface pH is slightly acidic at about 5–6.^{5 7}

Traditional alkaline soaps can disrupt the barrier, increase dryness and aggravate eczema, which is why multiple guidelines recommend soap-free cleansers and short lukewarm baths or showers.^{1 2 5} Humectants such as glycerin and low-percentage urea draw water into the upper skin layers, while emollients soften and smooth the surface; both support barrier repair when incorporated into cleansers and moisturisers.^{8 10}

5. Governance Principles & Risk Management

Cleansers recommended or supplied by NCD must be appropriate for cosmetic-class use and must not be misrepresented as therapeutic goods. Product selection should minimise the risk of irritant or allergic contact dermatitis in high-risk groups (for example eczema, rosacea and barrier-impaired skin) and should be supported by credible dermatology-level sources and recognised clinical guidelines.^{3 5 6 17}

Staff must avoid over-promising results from cleansers, implying that cleansers can replace prescribed medical treatment, or recommending harsh or trending products without an evidence base. Significant adverse reactions should be documented and managed under NCD’s incident and clinical risk framework.

6. What a Cleanser Should (and Shouldn’t) Do

A good cleanser removes sweat, sunscreen, makeup, excess oil and pollutants so that moisturiser and other skincare can spread evenly and perform as expected.^{7 8} After rinsing, the skin should feel clean but comfortable, not tight, itchy, burning or “squeaky”. Patient education should emphasise barrier preservation rather than “stripping” the skin.^{1 5}

A cleanser should not sting, burn or cause lasting redness; this suggests that the formulation is too harsh or fragranced for that patient.^{1 4} Cleansers used under this policy must not claim to treat diagnosed skin disease unless they are regulated as therapeutic goods by the TGA.^{13 14} They must not be used or advertised as a replacement for medical therapy in eczema, acne or rosacea. Patients who report flares, stinging or worsening symptoms should be advised to stop the product and see their GP or dermatologist.

7. How Cleansers Work (Mechanism of Action)

Cleansers contain surfactant molecules with a water-loving and an oil-loving end; in water these form micelles that surround oils, sunscreen and makeup, allowing them to be lifted off the skin surface and rinsed away.^{7 18} The type and strength of surfactants determine cleansing power and potential for irritation.

Soap-free, pH-balanced cleansers with a pH of about 5–6 are closer to the skin’s natural pH and are less disruptive to barrier lipids than alkaline soaps, which can increase dryness and irritant dermatitis.^{5 7} Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is a strong anionic surfactant and a recognised skin irritant used as a model irritant in research; it is best avoided on reactive facial skin.⁹ Micellar waters are dilute surfactant solutions that can remove makeup and sunscreen effectively but may still disturb the barrier if left on the skin; a brief rinse after use is a conservative strategy, particularly in sensitive patients.¹⁸

8. Cleanser Types & Matching to Skin

Syndet gels and foams suit normal, combination or oily and acne-prone skin that feels greasy or congested by day’s end; they provide a clean feel while being less alkaline than true soaps, especially if they are pH-balanced and fragrance-free.^{1 2 7} Cream and lotion cleansers contain more emollients and humectants and are appropriate for dry, mature, eczema-prone or post-procedure skin.^{5 6 8}

Oil and balm cleansers are useful as a first step on heavy sunscreen or makeup days, dissolving water-resistant filters and pigments which are then removed with a second gentle water-based cleanser. Micellar water offers convenience for travel and gym bags but should ideally be followed by a quick lukewarm rinse in sensitive or rosacea-prone patients.¹⁸ Syndet bars labelled “soap-free” and pH-balanced can be acceptable, whereas traditional alkaline soaps are generally avoided on the face in dry, eczematous or rosacea-prone skin.^{5 7}

9. Ingredient Criteria (What to Seek / Avoid)

Helpful label terms for sensitive or eczema-prone skin include “soap-free”, “syndet”, “pH-balanced” and “fragrance-free”.^{1 5 16} Beneficial ingredients include glycerin, betaine, panthenol, low-strength urea and ceramides, which reduce post-wash tightness and support barrier repair when combined with appropriate moisturiser use.^{8 10}

In high-risk patients NCD recommends avoiding SLS-based facial cleansers, strong fragrance, essential oils, menthol and high alcohol content, as these are common triggers in eczema and rosacea.^{3 5 9 16} High-percentage urea washes should not be used on inflamed, thin or broken skin, and even low-dose urea should be stopped if stinging occurs.¹⁰ Claims such as “treats eczema/psoriasis/rosacea/acne” or “100% safe, no side effects” must be avoided unless the product is regulated as a therapeutic good and supported by robust evidence meeting AHPRA and TGA advertising standards.^{13 14 15}

10. Standard Patient Procedure – How to Cleanse (AM & PM)

Most adults need one proper cleanse at night to remove sunscreen, sweat and pollution. For oily or acne-prone skin, a gentle morning cleanse can be added provided irritation does not occur.^{2 17} Over-cleansing three or more times per day with harsh products typically increases dryness and sensitivity rather than improving breakouts.

Patients should use lukewarm water, not hot, because hot water strips natural lipids and aggravates itch and eczema.^{1 5} A small amount of cleanser should be massaged gently over damp skin for about 20–30 seconds before rinsing thoroughly, then the face should be patted rather than rubbed dry with a soft towel.^{1 4 7} Moisturiser should be applied immediately while the skin is slightly damp, followed by appropriate sunscreen in the morning.^{5 8 11} On heavy sunscreen or makeup days, a double-cleanse using an oil or micellar step followed by a gentle cleanser is often more effective and less irritating than a single harsh wash.^{7 18}

11. Special Situations

After workouts or in humid weather, a quick lukewarm rinse or gentle cleanse to remove sweat is reasonable; if the skin feels tight afterwards, moisturiser should be applied.^{4 17} After swimming in pools or the ocean, patients should rinse off chlorine or salt and wash with a gentle soap-free cleanser followed by moisturiser, consistent with eczema and allergy advice.^{1 3}

Patients using active skincare such as retinoids, hydroxy acids or benzoyl peroxide should generally use a bland, soap-free, fragrance-free cleanser so that the active can do the work and cumulative irritation is minimised.^{2 5 17} In the immediate post-procedure period (for example after non-ablative laser, light peels or microneedling), cream or lotion cleansers are preferable for several days; scrubs, hot water, brushes and fragranced products should be avoided. Persistent swelling, pain, crusting or discharge warrants prompt medical review.

12. Common Errors & Corrective Actions

Common errors include over-cleansing, using hot water, relying on scrubs or brushes, inadequate rinsing, and choosing strongly fragranced “fresh” cleansers in eczema or rosacea. Over-cleansing should be corrected by reducing to once daily at night (plus a gentle morning cleanse if truly needed) and stepping down to a milder cleanser.^{2 5}

Hot water should be replaced with short lukewarm washes, and mechanical exfoliants such as scrubs and brushes should be removed entirely in patients with sensitive, flushing or inflamed skin.^{1 5 7} Patients should be reminded to rinse thoroughly around the nose, hairline, jaw and ears to avoid surfactant residue. Strongly fragranced products should be replaced with fragrance-free, soap-free, low-foam cleansers.^{1 5 16}

13. Adverse Effects & Escalation

Patients should stop the cleanser and seek medical advice if they develop persistent burning, stinging or visible dermatitis after use; worsening eczema with weeping, pus, crusting or spreading redness; or eye irritation, swelling or visual changes following cleanser exposure to the eyes.^{3 5 6}

Suspected contact dermatitis, infection or treatment failure should be escalated to a GP or dermatologist, consistent with Australian eczema and dermatitis guidance. Clinicians should record suspected product(s), timing and distribution of the reaction to assist with future assessment or patch-testing.^{3 5 6 17}

14. Documentation, Training & Audit

Clinicians should document the type of cleanser recommended or supplied, key instructions (including frequency, water temperature, moisturiser use and sunscreen advice) and any adverse reactions or intolerance reported. Patient education should emphasise simple, sustainable routines and discourage frequent product changes driven by social media trends.

This policy should undergo formal review at least every two years, or sooner if AICIS, TGA, ACCC, AHPRA or major dermatology guidance changes significantly.^{12 13 14 15} Audit activities may include chart reviews of cleanser recommendations, documentation quality and adherence to non-therapeutic advertising language.

15. Patient Q&A

Q1. Do I really need a special facial cleanser, or is ordinary soap enough?

Ordinary alkaline soaps are generally too harsh for facial skin, especially if you have dryness, eczema or rosacea; multiple guidelines now recommend soap-free cleansers instead because they are less drying and cause fewer flares.^{1 5 7} A dedicated facial cleanser that is soap-free, fragrance-free and pH-balanced is usually safer and more comfortable than body soap for everyday facial use.

Q2. How often should I cleanse my face?

Most adults only need one proper cleanse at night to remove sunscreen, sweat and pollution; oily or acne-prone skin may benefit from a gentle morning cleanse.^{2 17} Cleansing three or more times daily with harsh products tends to increase dryness, redness and sensitivity rather than prevent acne.

Q3. What water temperature is best for my skin?

Short, lukewarm face washing and showers are recommended because hot water strips natural oils and aggravates itch and eczema.^{1 5} If your skin turns red or feels very tight after washing, the water is likely too hot or the cleanser too strong.

Q4. My skin feels tight and itchy after washing. What does that mean?

A tight, itchy feeling usually means your barrier lipids have been over-stripped, not that the cleanser is working better.^{5 7} Switching to a soap-free, fragrance-free, pH-balanced cleanser and reducing washing frequency typically improves comfort.

Q5. Are makeup wipes or micellar water enough at night?

Makeup wipes and micellar water can remove pigment and some sunscreen but leave surfactants and residues on the skin, so most people benefit from following them with a gentle rinse-off cleanser.¹⁸ This is particularly important in sensitive or eczema-prone skin where surfactant residue can contribute to irritation.

16. Five Common Myths

Myth 1: “If it does not sting or tingle, it is not working.” In reality, stinging is a sign of irritation, and routine cleansers should not sting; guidelines favour non-stinging, non-irritant cleansers, especially in eczema or dermatitis.^{1 5 7}

Myth 2: “Soap is natural, so it is better than synthetic cleansers.” Traditional soaps are alkaline and can worsen dryness and eczema, whereas syndet cleansers are designed to be milder and closer to skin pH.^{5 7}

Myth 3: “Scrubbing hard clears pores and stops acne.” Scrubbing inflames the skin and worsens pigmentation; acne is driven by oil, hormones and inflammation, so gentle cleansing plus appropriate medical therapy is preferred.^{2 17}

Myth 4: “Micellar water is completely leave-on and cannot irritate skin.” Micellar water is a dilute surfactant solution and can still disrupt the barrier if left on; a brief rinse afterwards is a conservative, low-risk habit.¹⁸

Myth 5: “More products and steps always give better results.” Complex routines with multiple cleansers, scrubs and tools often increase irritation; most eczema and dry-skin resources favour simple, consistent routines with minimal, well-chosen products.^{5 8 16 17}

Sources

1. Royal Children’s Hospital Melbourne 2025, Clinical Practice Guideline: Eczema, Royal Children’s Hospital, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.rch.org.au/clinicalguide/guideline_index/eczema/ ↩
2. Royal Australian College of General Practitioners (RACGP) 2016, Atopic dermatitis in children, Australian Family Physician, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.racgp.org.au/afp/2016/may/atopic-dermatitis-in-children ↩
3. Healthdirect Australia 2025, Eczema – symptoms, causes and treatment, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.healthdirect.gov.au/eczema ↩
4. Healthdirect Australia 2025, Itchy skin – treatments, causes and prevention, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.healthdirect.gov.au/itchy-skin ↩
5. Australasian College of Dermatologists (ACD) 2017, Xerosis (dry skin) – A–Z of Skin, ACD, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.dermcoll.edu.au/atoz/xerosis/ ↩
6. Australasian College of Dermatologists (ACD) 2023, Atopic dermatitis – A–Z of Skin, ACD, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.dermcoll.edu.au/atoz/atopic-dermatitis/ ↩
7. DermNet NZ 2023, Soaps and cleansers, DermNet New Zealand Trust, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://dermnetnz.org/topics/soaps-and-cleansers ↩
8. DermNet NZ 2023, Emollients and moisturisers, DermNet New Zealand Trust, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://dermnetnz.org/topics/emollients-and-moisturisers ↩
9. Mohammed, Y 2019, ‘What is sodium lauryl sulfate and is it safe to use?’, The University of Queensland, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://medicine.uq.edu.au/article/2019/12/what-sodium-lauryl-sulfate-and-it-safe-use ↩
10. DermNet NZ 2023, Urea, DermNet New Zealand Trust, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://dermnetnz.org/topics/urea ↩
11. Cancer Council Australia 2025, About sunscreen, Cancer Council, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.cancer.org.au/cancer-information/causes-and-prevention/sun-safety/about-sunscreen ↩
12. Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS) 2024, Cosmetics and soap, Australian Government, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/cosmetics-and-soap ↩
13. Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) 2024, Determining if your product is a cosmetic or therapeutic good, Australian Government, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/determining-if-your-product-cosmetic-or-therapeutic-good ↩
14. Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) 2021, False or misleading claims, ACCC, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/advertising-and-promotions/false-or-misleading-claims ↩
15. Ahpra & Medical Board of Australia 2023, Advertising guidelines and cosmetic procedure advertising guidance, Ahpra, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.ahpra.gov.au/Resources/Advertising-hub/Advertising-guidelines-and-other-guidance.aspx ↩
16. Eczema Association of Australasia 2025, Choosing skincare products for eczema, Eczema Association of Australasia, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://eczema.org.au/choose-skincare-products-for-eczema/ ↩
17. Queensland Health 2025, Mild to moderate atopic dermatitis – clinical practice guideline, Queensland Government, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://www.health.qld.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0018/1304244/dermatitis-guideline.pdf ↩
18. LabMuffin 2023, Fact-check: What is micellar water and how does it work? – an update, LabMuffin Science, viewed 14 Nov 2025, https://labmuffin.com/fact-check-what-is-micellar-water-and-how-does-it-work-an-update/ ↩