This document provides general cosmetic-class skincare information for adults (18+) who want to improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, sun spots and post-inflammatory pigmentation using non-prescription products ^{1 5}. It does not diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease and does not replace personalised medical advice from a doctor, dermatologist or pharmacist ^{1 5}.

All products described are intended to be regulated as cosmetics, not as therapeutic goods. This means all claims must stay strictly around appearance-only benefits such as "brightening", "radiance", or "helps even skin tone" ^{1 2}. If a product or advertisement claims to "treat melasma", "cure pigmentation", or implies treatment of a disorder, it may fall under the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989, and TGA rules would apply ¹.

Any concerns about new, changing, painful, itchy, bleeding, thickened or spreading pigmentation, or suspected melasma, dermal pigment, ochronosis or other skin disease, require medical assessment, not cosmetic self-management ^{1 5}.

1. Purpose

1.1 For patients

• Explain which non-prescription brightening ingredients can safely improve the appearance of uneven tone and dark marks.
• Provide clear, step-by-step instructions on how to use these products, how long they take to work, and when to stop and seek medical help.

1.2 For clinic staff

• Standardise advice so all staff give consistent, evidence-based, legally compliant guidance.
• Keep all recommendations inside Australian cosmetic, consumer and AHPRA advertising rules ^{1 3 4 5 25}.
• Reduce irritation-driven worsening of pigmentation by emphasising slow introduction, barrier support and strict photoprotection.

2. Scope & Exclusions

2.1 What this policy covers

• Adults (18+) using non-prescription cosmetic brightening products.
• Cosmetic-class actives including vitamin C, niacinamide, licorice extract, arbutin and kojic acid.
• General advice on AM/PM routines, layering, expected timeframes, and basic safety.

2.2 What this policy does not cover

This policy does not cover:

• Prescription medicines (e.g. hydroquinone, topical retinoids, high-strength azelaic acid, oral tranexamic acid, cysteamine) ^{1 5}.
• Laser, IPL, chemical peels, microneedling or other procedures.
• Diagnosis or medical management of melasma, dermal pigmentation, inflammatory dermatoses or systemic disease.

These require individual medical assessment and separate clinical protocols.

2.3 Pregnancy & lactation

• Avoid: hydroquinone and topical retinoids in pregnancy and breastfeeding ^{20 21}.
• Cosmetic brightening products should be used cautiously, with preference for well-tolerated ingredients (e.g. niacinamide, licorice), and always checked with an antenatal provider or MotherSafe before use ²⁰.
• Pigmentation changes in pregnancy (e.g. melasma) should be discussed with a doctor.

3. Regulatory & Advertising Framework (Australia)

3.1 Cosmetic vs therapeutic boundary

A product remains a cosmetic when it is marketed to:

• Clean, protect, perfume, maintain or improve the appearance of the skin – without claiming to treat a disorder ^{1 2}.

If advertising uses disease language ("melasma", "pigment disorder", "treatment") or implies a therapeutic action, the product may be considered a therapeutic good and fall under TGA regulation ¹.

3.2 Key regulators

• TGA – Therapeutic Goods Administration
• Regulates therapeutic goods and therapeutic claims.
• Brightening products must avoid treatment claims to remain cosmetic-class ^{1 2}.
• AICIS – Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme
• Regulates chemical ingredients in cosmetics.
• Each raw material must be checked against AICIS requirements before manufacture or import ³.
• ACCC – Australian Competition & Consumer Commission
• Enforces the Cosmetics Information Standard and general consumer law (no false or misleading claims) ^{4 25}.
• AHPRA
• When a regulated health service advertises skincare, AHPRA advertising rules still apply: no clinical testimonials, no misleading "before and after" images, no exaggeration of benefits ^{5 6}.

3.3 Compliance pearl

Keep all language to "improves the appearance of dark spots / uneven tone" and avoid "treats melasma" or "cures pigmentation".

4. Understanding Pigment & Uneven Tone

4.1 Basic pigment biology

• Skin colour comes from melanin made by melanocytes in the lower epidermis.
• When the skin is exposed to sun, heat, inflammation, friction or hormones, melanocytes produce extra pigment.
• This extra pigment collects as sun spots, post-acne marks, and patchy discolouration ^{18 19}.

4.2 Epidermal vs dermal pigment

• Epidermal pigment (closer to the surface) usually appears brown and responds better to cosmetic-class brightening plus sun protection.
• Dermal or mixed pigment sits deeper and often looks grey-brown or slate-coloured; it rarely improves with cosmetic products alone and may require medical treatment ^{19 24}.

4.3 What cosmetic brightening can and cannot do

• Can: help the appearance of dark marks, PIH and sun spots fade more evenly over time.
• Cannot: treat melasma, change natural underlying skin colour, remove deep dermal pigment, or replace medical treatment ^{1 24}.

4.4 Why sunscreen is non-negotiable

• UV and visible light continue to re-trigger melanocytes every day ^{16 23}.
• Without daily broad-spectrum SPF50+ when UV Index ≥ 3, pigmentation persists or worsens, even with brightening serums ^{16 17}.
• For melasma and strong PIH, tinted sunscreen with iron oxides gives extra protection against visible light ^{16 23}.

5. Evidence-Based Cosmetic Brightening Ingredients

5.0 Mechanisms in simple terms

Most cosmetic brightening ingredients work by one or more of these pathways:

1. Slowing pigment production – blocking tyrosinase, the enzyme that helps create melanin (vitamin C, arbutin, licorice, kojic acid) ^{7 11 12 14}.
2. Reducing pigment transfer – niacinamide reduces how many pigment packets (melanosomes) get passed into surrounding skin cells ^{9 10}.
3. Calming inflammation – niacinamide and licorice reduce irritation that can trigger new dark marks ^{11 22}.
4. Antioxidant protection – vitamin C helps neutralise UV-induced free radicals that worsen pigment ^{7 8}.

They do not bleach the natural skin colour; they help over-active pigment pathways move back towards normal.

5.1 Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid & derivatives)

What this ingredient actually does

• Helps the skin look brighter and more even.
• Supports the skin’s defence against UV-related oxidative stress ^{7 8}.

Vitamin C interferes with early steps of melanin formation and neutralises UV-induced free radicals ^{7 8}.

• L-ascorbic acid (LAA) is the best-studied form but is unstable. It needs: pH < 3.5, opaque/airtight bottles, stabilisers such as ferulic acid and vitamin E.
• Properly formulated 10–20% LAA serums can improve the appearance of sun damage and uneven tone.
• Stable derivatives (SAP, MAP, Ascorbyl Glucoside) are often better tolerated but may act more slowly.

Practical tips: discard vitamin C if it turns dark orange/brown; it has oxidised. Use in the morning, underneath sunscreen.

5.2 Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

What this ingredient actually does

• Helps even out skin tone by reducing pigment transfer into surface cells.
• Calms inflammation and strengthens the skin barrier ^{9 10}.

Niacinamide reduces melanosome transfer, improves barrier function, and lowers the risk of new pigment from irritation ⁹. A randomised controlled trial showed 4% niacinamide had similar brightening benefits to 4% hydroquinone but with significantly fewer side effects ¹⁰.

It is an excellent first-line active, especially in sensitive or darker skin, and can be used morning and night. Avoid formulas loaded with fragrance or harsh acids.

5.3 Licorice Extract (Glabridin / Liquiritin)

What this ingredient actually does

• Gently reduces over-production of pigment.
• Helps older pigment gradually disperse towards the surface.
• Provides light anti-inflammatory support ¹¹.

Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase and reduces inflammation; liquiritin helps redistribute existing pigment ¹¹. Human data is smaller than for vitamin C or niacinamide, but clinical experience supports gradual, steady improvement when used consistently.

Best used as a supporting brightener alongside niacinamide or arbutin. Look for standardised extracts; “licorice” on the label alone says nothing about strength.

5.4 Arbutin (α-arbutin & β-arbutin)

What this ingredient actually does

• Slows excess melanin formation.
• Functions as a gentler alternative to hydroquinone ^{12 13}.

Arbutin is a plant-derived tyrosinase inhibitor ¹².

• α-arbutin is more potent; SCCS supports safety up to 2% in face creams.
• β-arbutin is supported up to 7% for face creams, with strict control of hydroquinone impurities ^{12 13}.

Use only from reputable manufacturers with Certificates of Analysis confirming low hydroquinone contamination. Suitable for long-term maintenance of the appearance of PIH and sun damage.

5.5 Kojic Acid (≤1%)

What this ingredient actually does

• Targets tyrosinase by chelating copper, reducing surface-level pigment production ¹⁴.

CIR and SCCS reviews support kojic acid use in leave-on cosmetics up to 1% ¹⁴. However, allergic contact dermatitis to kojic acid is well documented even at this level ¹⁵.

Always introduce last and slowly. Patch test on a small area (e.g. behind ear) for several nights. Any itchy, red, scaly or burning reaction means the product should be stopped and skin reassessed ^{15 22}.

6. Cosmetic-Safe Concentrations & Allowed Pairings

6.1 Recommended cosmetic concentration ranges

• L-ascorbic acid: 10–20%, pH < 3.5 ^{7 8}
• Niacinamide: 2–5% (strongest evidence at 4%) ¹⁰
• Licorice extract: ~0.5–1% standardised ¹¹
• α-arbutin: ≤2% for face ¹²
• β-arbutin: ≤7% with hydroquinone impurity control ¹³
• Kojic acid: ≤1% leave-on, with close monitoring ^{14 15}

These are upper cosmetic-class limits, not fixed targets for every patient.

6.2 Allowed ingredient pairings (with practical instructions)

Vitamin C + Ferulic Acid + Vitamin E (AM)

Why it works

• Vitamin C: brightening + antioxidant protection.
• Vitamin E: moisturising and stabilising vitamin C.
• Ferulic acid: increases stability and doubles photoprotection of vitamins C and E ⁸.

How to use

• Use in the morning on clean, dry skin.
• Apply 3–5 drops, avoiding eyelids.
• Let absorb 30–60 seconds, then follow with other serums, moisturiser and SPF50+.
• Mild tingling is acceptable; burning or persistent redness is not.

Avoid layering with strong exfoliating acids in the same routine.

Niacinamide + Arbutin/Licorice (AM and/or PM)

Why it works

• Niacinamide: barrier support, anti-inflammatory, reduces pigment transfer.
• Arbutin: slows melanin formation.
• Licorice: slows tyrosinase and helps pigment dispersion ^{9 10 11 12}.

How to use

Foundation phase (first 7–10 days):

• PM only – cleanse → niacinamide → arbutin or licorice → moisturiser.

If tolerated, maintenance phase:

• AM – cleanse → niacinamide → arbutin/licorice → moisturiser → SPF50+.
• PM – cleanse → niacinamide → arbutin/licorice → moisturiser.

Niacinamide + Kojic Acid (PM only)

Why it works

• Niacinamide calms and stabilises the skin barrier.
• Kojic acid targets tyrosinase and epidermal pigment ¹⁵.
• Using niacinamide first helps reduce the irritation risk from kojic acid.

How to use

• Only introduce after skin tolerates niacinamide ± arbutin/licorice.
• PM routine: cleanse → niacinamide → wait 30–60 seconds → kojic acid (thin layer or spot treat) → moisturiser.
• Start every 2–3 nights for 2 weeks. If no irritation, increase to alternate nights.

Stop immediately if itch, red patches or scaly areas develop.

7. Directions for Use (Step-by-Step Routines)

7.1 Morning (AM) – Protect & Support

1. Cleanse

• Gentle, fragrance-free cleanser with lukewarm water.
• Avoid scrubs, brushes and hot water, which can trigger inflammation and PIH ²².

2. Vitamin C serum

• Apply 3–5 drops to clean, dry skin.
• Avoid eyelids; allow 30–60 seconds to absorb ^{7 8}.

3. Niacinamide ± Arbutin/Licorice

• Apply a pea-sized amount of niacinamide.
• Layer arbutin or licorice serum if already tolerated.

4. Moisturiser (if needed)

• Light, fragrance-free moisturiser to support the barrier.

5. Broad-spectrum SPF50+

• Apply two finger-lengths to face and neck.
• Use tinted SPF containing iron oxides in melasma or PIH ^{16 23}.
• Reapply every 2 hours when outdoors.

7.2 Evening (PM) – Repair & Target Pigment

1. Cleanse

• Remove sunscreen, makeup and pollution with a gentle cleanser.
• Double cleanse only if necessary.

2. Niacinamide ± Arbutin/Licorice

• Apply niacinamide first to clean, dry skin.
• Add arbutin or licorice afterwards if tolerated.

3. Kojic Acid (≤1%) – if used

• Introduce last and slowly, at night only.
• Start every 2–3 nights; apply a thin layer or spot treat ¹⁵.

4. Moisturiser

• Apply a barrier-supportive moisturiser last.
• In sensitive skin, use the "sandwich method" (moisturiser → kojic acid → moisturiser).

8. Safety, Precautions & Contraindications

8.1 Pregnancy & breastfeeding

• Avoid hydroquinone and retinoids ^{20 21}.
• Focus on SPF50+, hats, shade, gentle cleansing and simple moisturisers.
• Cosmetic-class actives (e.g. niacinamide, licorice) should still be checked with antenatal care providers or MotherSafe before use ²⁰.

8.2 Irritation and allergic contact dermatitis

• Signs of irritant or allergic reaction: persistent redness, stinging, burning, swelling, blisters, intense itching or rough scaly patches ^{15 22}.
• First step: stop the suspected product, simplify the routine, use bland moisturiser only.
• Persistent or severe reactions require medical review and may need a short course of topical steroid prescribed by a doctor ^{15 22}.

8.3 When cosmetic products are not enough

• If, after 12–16 weeks of correct use and strict SPF50+, there is little or no improvement, deeper dermal or hormonal pigment is likely ^{18 24}.
• These patients require GP or dermatologist review for possible prescription or procedural options.

9. Product Quality & Labelling Standards

• Check all ingredients against AICIS to confirm cosmetic status ³.
• Follow the ACCC Cosmetic Information Standard: INCI ingredient list, batch number, expiry, storage instructions and warnings ⁴.
• Position products clearly as cosmetic – appearance only, avoiding therapeutic language ^{1 25}.

Low-cost or poorly labelled imports (especially online) carry higher risks of incorrect strengths, contamination and undeclared hydroquinone or steroids.

10. Counselling Points for Staff

10.1 Setting realistic expectations

• Pigment always fades slowly; expect 8–12+ weeks for noticeable change ¹⁸.
• Deeper or long-standing pigment may take many months even with perfect routines.
• Products do not bleach or change the natural skin colour; they calm overactive pigment.

10.2 Technique & tolerance

• Introduce one new product at a time.
• Start low and slow: once daily, then increase as tolerated.
• If irritation appears, step back to the last well-tolerated routine and reassess ^{15 22}.

10.3 Sun behaviour

• Driving and "quick errands" still count as UV exposure.
• Encourage hats, shade, UV-protective clothing and diligent SPF use.
• Tinted SPF is strongly recommended for melasma and stubborn PIH ^{16 23}.

11. Advertising & Claims (Clinic Channels)

11.1 Allowed (cosmetic-class language)

• "Helps improve the appearance of uneven skin tone."
• "Visibly brightens the look of dark spots."
• "Cosmetic brightening serum for more radiant-looking skin."

11.2 Not allowed (therapeutic language)

• "Treats melasma or pigment disorders."
• "Cures hyperpigmentation."
• Any wording implying medical treatment, cure or guaranteed outcome ^{15 25}.

12. Practical Patient Pathway

12.1 Assessment

• Identify Fitzpatrick skin type, triggers (sun, acne, heat, friction, hormones) and co-existing issues (acne, rosacea, eczema) ^{18 19}.
• Clinically judge whether pigment looks superficial (more likely to respond) or deep/dermal (less likely to respond, may need medical input) ²⁴.
• Take baseline photos in consistent lighting and angles to objectively track change.

12.2 Stepwise introduction

Step 1 – Foundation: Niacinamide + Arbutin/Licorice

• Start PM only for 7–10 days: cleanse → niacinamide → arbutin/licorice → moisturiser.
• If tolerated, increase to AM + PM.

Step 2 – Add Vitamin C (AM)

• Introduce once foundation step is stable.
• Apply after cleansing, before niacinamide and sunscreen.

Step 3 – Add Kojic Acid (PM, only if needed)

• Introduce last, and only if foundation steps are well tolerated.
• Use at night every 2–3 nights initially; slowly increase if skin remains calm ¹⁵.

12.3 Combining safely

Example AM routine:

• Cleanse → Vitamin C → Niacinamide → Arbutin/Licorice → Moisturiser → SPF50+.

Example PM routine:

• Cleanse → Niacinamide → Arbutin/Licorice → Kojic Acid (if used) → Moisturiser.

General rules:

• Never add more than one new active in a given week.
• If irritation appears, simplify back to niacinamide + moisturiser and rebuild slowly.

12.4 Review & escalation

• Review at 12–16 weeks with repeat photos ^{18 24}.
• If improvement is modest but clear, continue and adjust.
• If no improvement despite correct use and strict SPF, refer for medical assessment.

13. Incident Management

Suspected irritant or allergic contact dermatitis:

• Stop all active products.
• Use bland emollient only.
• Consider doctor-prescribed mild topical steroid if appropriate ^{15 22}.
• Patch test later if re-introducing actives.

Worsening pigment despite good adherence:

• Check SPF use (timing, amount, reapplication).
• Encourage tinted SPF for visible light protection.
• Simplify routine; remove potential irritants; consider medical review ^{16 23 24}.

Pregnancy discovered mid-course:

• Cease non-essential actives with limited pregnancy safety data.
• Continue SPF50+ and gentle, fragrance-free skincare ²⁰.

14. Frequently Asked Questions

Q1. How long does it take for brightening products to work?

Most people need at least 8–12 weeks of consistent use before they notice clearer, more even-looking skin ¹⁸. Pigment sits in multiple layers of the epidermis, and those layers can only shed over time as the skin renews itself. If you stop and start, or skip sunscreen, results will be poor because UV and visible light keep re-triggering pigment ^{16 23}.

Deeper or long-standing pigment, especially in darker skin, may take several months. If there is no obvious improvement at all after 12–16 weeks of a correct, gentle routine and strict SPF50+, this suggests deeper or mixed pigment and you should speak to a doctor rather than just adding more cosmetic products ^{18 24}.

Q2. Do brightening creams lighten my natural skin colour?

No. Proper cosmetic brightening products are designed to help reduce excess pigment and improve the look of blotchy or patchy areas – they are not intended to bleach or change your natural underlying skin colour ^{1 18}. They work by calming overactive pigment pathways and helping dark marks and sun spots blend more evenly with the surrounding skin.

If a product claims to "whiten your skin" or "change your skin colour", especially with aggressive or absolute language, treat it with caution. Under Australian law, cosmetics should be positioned around appearance-only benefits, and strong "whitening" claims may raise ethical and regulatory concerns ^{1 25}.

Q3. Which is better for dark spots: vitamin C or niacinamide?

They do different jobs and work best together.

• Vitamin C reduces the appearance of sun damage and pigmentation and provides antioxidant protection ^{7 8}.
• Niacinamide reduces pigment transfer, calms inflammation and strengthens the barrier, making the skin less reactive and more tolerant ^{9 10}.

A key trial showed 4% niacinamide achieved similar brightening to 4% hydroquinone with fewer side effects ¹⁰. In practice, vitamin C is often used in the morning, while niacinamide is used morning and/or night as a backbone ingredient.

Q4. Can I use vitamin C and niacinamide together, or do they cancel each other out?

You can safely use them together. The idea that they "cancel each other out" comes from old, extreme-condition chemistry that does not apply to modern cosmetic products. Current evidence and real-world formulations support combining them in the same routine ^{7 9}.

A practical order is: cleanse → vitamin C → niacinamide → moisturiser → sunscreen in the morning. Vitamin C goes closest to clean skin for best penetration; niacinamide is layered afterwards for barrier support and pigment control. Both ingredients remain cosmetic-class when used and advertised correctly within Australian guidelines ^{7 10}.

Q5. Is kojic acid safe to use on my face?

Kojic acid can help the appearance of surface-level pigmentation when used properly, but it has a relatively high risk of irritation and allergic contact dermatitis, even at cosmetic strengths ^{14 15}. Safety assessments support kojic acid up to 1% in leave-on products, but some people will still react at this level ¹⁴.

For safety:

• Use kojic acid only at ≤1% in leave-on products.
• Introduce slowly (every 2–3 nights at first).
• Use at night only, ideally after niacinamide.
• Patch test before general use.

If you develop redness, itching, burning, swelling or scaly patches, stop and seek advice – ongoing irritation can worsen pigmentation ^{15 22}.

Q6. I have darker skin. Will these products work for me or make things worse?

Darker skin types (Fitzpatrick IV–VI) can benefit from cosmetic brightening, but they need a gentler, controlled approach. Melanocytes in darker skin are more reactive, so harsh scrubs, strong acids, fragrance or poorly formulated brighteners can trigger more pigmentation, not less ^{18 19 22}.

Safer strategies for darker skin include:

• Starting with niacinamide and licorice/arbutin as a base.
• Adding stronger actives (like vitamin C or kojic acid) slowly and one at a time.
• Strict daily SPF50+ and tinted sunscreen to protect against both UV and visible light ^{16 19 23}.

If pigment is slate-grey, very deep, or not improving at all after 12–16 weeks of careful cosmetic use and excellent sun protection, medical review is recommended ^{19 24}.

Q7. Can I just use brightening serums without sunscreen?

No. Using brightening serums without sunscreen is like trying to mop the floor while the tap is still running. UV and visible light are major drivers of pigmentation, and without daily broad-spectrum SPF50+, pigment will keep being re-stimulated ^{16 17 23}.

In Australia, the Cancer Council recommends daily sunscreen on days when the UV Index is 3 or above, which is most of the year in many regions ¹⁶. For pigment-prone skin, sunscreen is the central treatment, and brightening products are the assistants.

Q8. What should I do if my skin gets red or itchy after starting a brightening product?

Redness, burning, itch or rough patches usually mean your skin is irritated or has developed contact dermatitis. The first step is to stop the newest active, simplify your routine and use a bland, fragrance-free moisturiser only ^{15 22}. Do not try to "push through" with the idea that irritation means it is working – ongoing inflammation is one of the easiest ways to worsen pigmentation.

If symptoms settle rapidly after stopping, that product is the likely trigger. If the reaction is severe, blistering, spreading or does not settle, you should see a doctor. Some cases may need a short course of a mild topical steroid prescribed by a doctor to calm inflammation ^{15 22}. Any re-introduction of actives should be very slow and patch-tested first.

Q9. Are these brightening products safe to use during pregnancy?

In pregnancy, safety comes first. Hydroquinone and topical retinoids must be avoided due to insufficient safety data and potential risks ^{20 21}.

Cosmetic ingredients such as niacinamide, vitamin C and licorice are generally considered low-risk from a cosmetic standpoint, but they should still be used cautiously and checked with your antenatal provider or MotherSafe before use ²⁰. Regardless of cosmetic products, the main tools in pregnancy-related pigmentation are sun protection, hats, shade and gentle skincare, not frequent use of multiple brightening actives.

Q10. When should I stop self-treating and see a doctor about my pigmentation?

You should see a doctor or dermatologist if:

• The pigment is new, changing quickly, irregular or asymmetric.
• There is bleeding, crusting, pain or repeated inflammation.
• You have used a correct, gentle cosmetic routine with strict SPF50+ for 12–16 weeks and seen no improvement at all.
• The pigment looks very deep, slate-grey or clearly dermal, not just superficial ^{15 24}.

These signs raise the possibility of melasma, dermal pigmentation, ochronosis, other dermatoses or even skin cancer, all of which require proper medical assessment. Cosmetic brightening routines are only appropriate for stable, benign, superficial pigment and must never replace a professional skin check ^{15 24}.

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