Legal Disclaimer

Nature of this document

This document provides general educational information about non-prescription exfoliants and resurfacing agents for adults. It does not diagnose skin conditions, replace medical treatment, or guide prescription therapies.^{1 4}

When to seek medical advice

Patients with medical skin disease, uncertain symptoms, pregnancy, or medication interactions must seek advice from a GP, dermatologist or pharmacist.^{8 9}

Limits of staff roles

Nothing in this policy authorises non-medical staff to give medical advice or perform procedures outside their training or Australian regulations, including AHPRA cosmetic and advertising standards.^{4 6}

1. Purpose

1.1 Overall aim

This policy establishes clear, evidence-based guidance for the safe selection and use of non-prescription exfoliants and resurfacing agents (chemical, enzymatic, and physical) in adult cosmetic skincare.^{1 3}

1.2 Specific goals

Its goals are to:

• Educate adult patients on correct use.^{4 8}
• Support safer home routines.^{1 3}
• Reduce risk of irritation, barrier damage, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and misuse.^{8 9}
• Ensure staff give consistent, legally safe education.^{4 5}
• Promote Australian-aligned practice standards for cosmetic and skin-penetration settings.^{1 7}

2. Scope

2.1 What this policy covers

This policy applies to:

• Adults aged 18+ using non-prescription exfoliants.^{1 4}
• Clinic-recommended products such as AHAs, BHAs, PHAs, enzymes, scrubs, and micro-exfoliation creams.^{1 8}
• All dermal therapists and cosmetic practitioners providing education or aftercare support regarding non-prescription exfoliant use.^{4 5}
• Both in-clinic and at-home exfoliation routines that fall within cosmetic (non-therapeutic) classification under Australian regulations.^{1 2}

2.2 What this policy does not cover

This policy does not apply to:

• Prescription chemical peels, TCA >20%, Jessner’s, or dermatologist-level peels, which are therapeutic procedures and require medical oversight.^{2 9}
• Laser resurfacing, RF microneedling, or ablative energy devices, which are covered under separate laser/energy device policies and skin penetration requirements.^{4 7}
• Patients under 18, who require specific paediatric or adolescent clinical assessment.⁴
• Treatments performed as part of medical management of disease such as acne, rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis, which are governed by medical treatment guidelines rather than cosmetic-class policies.^{8 9}

3. Definitions (Clear, Patient-Friendly)

3.1 Chemical exfoliants

Chemical Exfoliants are acids that help remove dead skin cells, smooth texture, and brighten dullness.⁸

The main groups include:

• AHAs (such as glycolic and lactic acids), which are useful for dry or normal skin and treating pigmentation.^{8 9}
• BHAs (such as salicylic acid), which are most effective for oily skin, blackheads, and congestion.⁸
• PHAs (such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid), which are ultra-gentle and suitable for sensitive or reactive skin.⁸

3.2 Enzyme exfoliants

Enzyme Exfoliants use papaya, pumpkin, or pineapple enzymes that dissolve debris on the skin surface, and are among the mildest options for sensitive or eczema-prone skin.⁸

3.3 Physical exfoliants

Physical Exfoliants are scrubs or cleansing tools that manually buff the skin and should be used sparingly, as overuse may cause micro-tears, inflammation, and worsening redness.^{8 9}

3.4 Resurfacing agents

Resurfacing Agents are non-prescription creams or serums containing acids or enzymes that improve texture, glow, and evenness through regular skin cell turnover, typically classified as cosmetic products rather than therapeutic goods.^{1 2}

4. Evidence Overview (Explained Simply)

4.1 General evidence

Modern cosmetic science supports exfoliation as a helpful tool for improving mild texture, dullness, and uneven tone when used correctly and combined with appropriate sun protection.^{8 10}

4.2 High-strength evidence

High-strength evidence supports:

• The use of AHAs and BHAs for improving mild photodamage, fine roughness, and congestion.^{8 9}
• The use of lactic acid for improving hydration while exfoliating.⁸
• Salicylic acid to reduce blackheads and breakouts more effectively than physical scrubs, particularly in acne-prone skin.^{8 9}

4.3 Moderate-strength evidence

Moderate-strength evidence supports:

• PHAs for improving glow and hydration with lower irritation, especially in sensitive or barrier-compromised skin.⁸
• Enzyme exfoliants for smoothing surface texture in sensitive skin where standard acids are not tolerated.⁸

4.4 Low-strength evidence and higher risk options

Low-strength evidence supports the use of home physical scrubs for improving localised rough patches, but these products carry a higher irritation risk.^{8 9}

DIY exfoliation mixtures or alcohol-based toners should be avoided due to unpredictable pH, barrier disruption and irritant potential.^{7 8}

5. Indications for Use

5.1 When exfoliants may be helpful

Non-prescription exfoliants may benefit adults with:

• Dull or uneven skin tone.⁸
• Rough or flaky texture.⁸
• Mild congestion or blackheads.^{8 9}
• Mild pigmentation (cosmetic concern only, not diagnosed melasma).⁸
• Dryness build-up around the nose or chin.⁸
• Roughness from sunscreen or makeup build-up.⁸

5.2 When exfoliants are not appropriate

They are not appropriate when:

• The skin is inflamed, peeling, or open.^{7 8}
• There are active dermatitis, eczema flares, rosacea flares, or infections.^{7 8}
• The patient is using prescription retinoids unless supervised by a medical practitioner.⁹
• The patient is unable or unwilling to apply daily sun protection, which is essential to reduce UV-related damage and PIH risk.^{10 11}

6. Contraindications & Cautions

6.1 Situations where exfoliants should be avoided

Exfoliants should be avoided:

• In pregnancy if there is any uncertainty about specific acids, unless cleared by a medical practitioner.^{8 9}
• In patients with active cold sores, due to risk of exacerbation and spread.⁷
• In those who have recently had chemical peels, IPL, laser, microneedling, or resurfacing treatments, where barrier integrity is temporarily reduced.^{4 7}
• In people with highly sensitive or barrier-damaged skin, where additional exfoliation may worsen symptoms.⁸
• In anyone who cannot commit to daily SPF use.^{10 11}

6.2 Situations where extra caution is required

Exfoliants should be used with caution in patients who:

• Are prone to PIH (Fitzpatrick IV–VI), as irritation increases pigmentation risk.^{9 10}
• Have chronic redness or rosacea tendencies.⁸
• Use strong actives such as vitamin C, retinoids, or benzoyl peroxide, which can compound irritation.^{8 9}
• Have recently waxed or shaved the treatment area, as the skin may be more vulnerable to stinging and barrier disruption.^{7 8}

7. Ingredient Hierarchy (Safest → Strongest)

7.1 Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) – safest starting point

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) are the safest starting point and are best for beginners, sensitive, eczema-prone, or rosacea-prone skin.⁸

They have minimal risk of stinging or barrier damage and are suitable for use two to four times per week.⁸

7.2 Enzyme exfoliants – very gentle

Enzyme exfoliants are very gentle and a good alternative if acids are too strong.⁸

They smooth texture without irritation and are typically safe for use two to three times weekly.⁸

7.3 Lactic acid – gentle to moderate

Lactic acid offers gentle to moderate exfoliation and hydration.^{8 9}

It is ideal for dry or uneven skin tone when started once or twice weekly at cosmetic strength.⁸

7.4 Glycolic acid – moderate to strong

Glycolic acid provides moderate to strong exfoliation and is most effective for pigmentation and texture.^{8 9}

It should be introduced once weekly at low strength and not combined with other strong actives until tolerance is established.⁸

7.5 Salicylic acid (BHA) – for oily and congested skin

Salicylic acid (BHA) is best for oily, congested, and breakout-prone skin as it penetrates deep into pores and helps clear comedones.^{8 9}

It may not suit dry or sensitive skin, where barrier-friendly alternatives are preferred.⁸

7.6 Physical scrubs – least recommended

Physical scrubs are least recommended because of their high irritation potential and risk of micro-trauma.^{8 9}

If used at all, they should be limited to once every 10–14 days and avoided in sensitive, rosacea-prone or PIH-prone skin.^{7 8}

8. Safe Use Guidelines (Clear, Step-By-Step)

8.1 Start with low frequency and low strength

Patients should start with low frequency and low strength, beginning once weekly and increasing only if the skin tolerates treatment without persistent redness or stinging.^{8 9}

8.2 Patch testing

A patch test should be performed by applying a small amount of product near the jawline and observing for 24 hours before first full use, consistent with general cosmetic safety and skin-penetration caution principles.^{1 7}

8.3 Avoiding risky combinations

Patients should avoid combining exfoliating acids with other strong actives such as:

• Retinoids.
• Vitamin C.
• Benzoyl peroxide.
• Alcohol-based toners.
• Scrubs on the same day.

This reduces irritation risk and helps protect the skin barrier.^{8 9}

8.4 Sun protection is essential

Daily SPF 50+ application is essential, as exfoliation increases sun sensitivity and the risk of PIH, redness, and long-term damage when sun protection is neglected.^{10 11}

8.5 When to stop and seek advice

Patients should stop use immediately and seek advice if they experience burning, peeling, swelling, or persistent redness; tightness or shininess of the skin; or the development of dark patches after irritation.^{8 9}

9. Clinical Pearls (Useful Extras for Patients)

9.1 Recognising normal vs abnormal sensations

A brief tingling feeling with acid products is often normal, but burning or pain is not and indicates the product is too strong or unsuitable.^{8 9}

9.2 Frequency and overuse

More frequent exfoliation does not mean better results, and overuse commonly leads to redness, dryness, and impaired barrier function.^{8 9}

9.3 Supporting the barrier

Hydrating serums and barrier repair creams can help support the skin when used with exfoliants, and simple routines usually perform better than complex multi-step regimens.⁸

9.4 Exfoliation and skin disease

Exfoliation alone is not a cure for acne, melasma, or rosacea, and patients with these conditions should seek appropriate medical care following recognised clinical guidance.^{8 9}

9.5 Risks of strong home acids

Home use of strong acids or peel kits is unnecessary and significantly increases risks of complications such as burns and PIH, especially in darker skin types.^{8 9}

9.6 Sensitive areas

The skin around the eyes and mouth is thinner and more sensitive, so exfoliants should generally be kept away from these regions unless a specific product is designed for that purpose.⁸

10. Pre- & Post-Procedure Considerations

10.1 Timing before procedures

Patients should pause exfoliants three to five days before chemical peels, laser treatments, microneedling, or IPL to minimise barrier disruption and adverse effects.^{4 7}

10.2 Timing after procedures

They should avoid restarting exfoliants for five to seven days afterwards unless advised otherwise by their practitioner, and only resume once there is no redness, peeling, or tenderness and the skin barrier feels normal.^{4 7}

10.3 Key pre- and post-care messages

Clear pre- and post-procedure instructions should emphasise sun protection, gentle cleansing and moisturising, and avoidance of other strong actives until the skin has fully recovered.^{7 10}

11. Documentation Requirements

11.1 What staff must record

Staff should record the type of exfoliant product recommended (including active ingredients and strength where known), any individual sensitivities, cautions or contraindications, that written aftercare was provided where appropriate, and any adverse reactions or concerns reported by the patient.^{4 7}

11.2 Record-keeping standards

Documentation should be maintained in line with clinic record-keeping policies and relevant Australian privacy and health record regulations and professional standards.^{4 5}

12. Review & Governance

12.1 Review frequency

This policy will be reviewed every two years, or earlier if Australian cosmetic, dermatology, or advertising guidelines are updated, significant new evidence emerges regarding exfoliants and barrier safety, or new product categories become widely used in practice.^{1 4}

12.2 Approval and version control

Updates should be approved by the Medical Director or delegated governance lead, and version control should note the date of revision and key changes made.^{4 5}

Sources

1. Australian Government – Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA). “Cosmetics.” Topic hub explaining what counts as a cosmetic in Australia, how cosmetics differ from therapeutic goods, and the basic regulatory framework for cosmetic products, https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/explore-topic/cosmetics. ↩
2. TGA. “Determining if your product is a cosmetic or therapeutic good.” Guidance document on how to classify a product as a cosmetic vs therapeutic good, including overview of advertising and compliance obligations under Australian law, https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/determining-if-your-product-cosmetic-or-therapeutic-good. ↩
3. Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS). “Personal care, skincare, make-up and other cosmetic products.” Information page outlining how almost all cosmetic ingredients are regulated as industrial chemicals, with duties for introducers regarding safety, labelling and reporting, https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/cosmetics-and-soap/cosmetics-and-therapeutics. ↩
4. AHPRA. “Guidelines for registered medical practitioners who perform cosmetic surgery and procedures.” Detailed guideline covering practitioner responsibilities, patient assessment, informed consent, managing risk, and governance for cosmetic surgery and non-surgical procedures, https://www.medicalboard.gov.au/Codes-Guidelines-Policies/Cosmetic-medical-and-surgical-procedures-guidelines.aspx. ↩
5. AHPRA. “Performing non-surgical cosmetic procedures.” Cosmetic procedure guidance summarising expectations for registered practitioners, including consultation standards, infection prevention and control, and post-procedure care, https://www.ahpra.gov.au/Resources/Cosmetic-surgery-hub/Information-for-the-public/Injectables.aspx. ↩
6. AHPRA. “Resources for advertising higher risk non-surgical cosmetic procedures.” Information page supporting compliance with cosmetic procedure advertising guidelines, including practical examples of prohibited claims and targeting restrictions, https://www.ahpra.gov.au/Resources/Cosmetic-surgery-hub/Cosmetic-procedure-guidelines/Resources-for-performing-non-surgical-cosmetic-procedures.aspx. ↩
7. NSW Health. “Beauty, body art and skin penetration industries.” Fact sheet outlining rules for skin penetration procedures and premises under the Public Health Act 2010 and Public Health Regulation 2022, https://www.health.nsw.gov.au/environment/factsheets/Pages/cont-skin-pen-procedures.aspx. ↩
8. RACGP. “Rosacea.” Clinical review for general practitioners covering diagnosis, triggers, evidence-based management and skincare guidance, https://www.racgp.org.au/afp/2017/may/rosacea. ↩
9. RACGP / Australian Journal of General Practice. “Acne: Unique considerations in skin of colour.” Evidence-based guidance on acne, PIH risk, scarring and considerations for skin of colour, https://www1.racgp.org.au/ajgp/2023/october/unique-considerations-in-skin-of-colour. ↩
10. ARPANSA. “Sun exposure and health” and “Sun protection.” Radiation protection material on UV exposure, skin cancer risk and practical sun safety strategies, https://www.arpansa.gov.au/understanding-radiation/radiation-sources/more-radiation-sources/sun-exposure. ↩
11. Cancer Council Australia. “What is UV radiation?” Patient-facing explainer on UV radiation, skin cancer risk and UV index guidance, https://www.canceraustralia.gov.au/resources/position-statements/lifestyle-risk-factors-and-primary-prevention-cancer/lifestyle-risk-factors/uv-radiation. ↩